Brief History
Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital city and one our favourite places in the world. Its landscape, people and history could quite easily have been plucked from a fantasy novel. In what other city centre would you find a mighty fortress perched upon an extinct volcano overlooking cobbled streets teeming with heroic figures and devilish villains.
Famous for many things, you will never feel bored in Edinburgh. This truly is a city that caters to all needs. The history buffs will feel right at home walking the halls and armouries of Edinburgh Castle. Children will be mesmerised at the amazing Camera Obscura. Enjoy nature and the outdoors? Take a hike up Arthur’s Seat! Fancy yourself as a whisky connoisseur? Pop into the Scotch Whisky Experience for a dram. And for those into the spookier side of life, why not go on a nighttime excursion through haunted vaults and underground streets that unravel like a labyrinth beneath Edinburgh – watch out for the ghosts though!
Edinburgh is of course a modern city now with modern people going about their modern lives. But when you are there, weaving through the tight cobbled alleyways, surrounded on all sides by beautiful historic buildings, and the sound of the city is muffled by the skirl of bagpipes, you will feel yourself transported back in time.
Arrival Tips
Plane
Edinburgh is blessed with fantastic transport links for both international and closer to home tourists. The nearest airport, and the one you are most likely to use, is Edinburgh International. This medium sized airport is only a 20-minute drive from the city centre but is also well connected with Edinburgh’s tram system. To get the tram into the centre, simply walk out of departures and bare left following the covered walkway and signs for the tram. The journey will last around 35 minutes and a ticket costs about £7 – you can buy these at one of the machines before you board. Don’t worry if you miss a tram, they run every seven to fifteen minutes.
Train
A tourist site in its own right, Edinburgh Waverly Train Station is in the heart of the city centre and the perfect way to arrive into the city. When you step out of the station you’ll be at the front gate of the wonderful Princes Street Gardens, with the Scott Monument towering over you and only a few streets over from the famous Royal Mile. Arriving by train is not only for local tourists. You can quite easily get a train here from anywhere else in England and even Europe if you don’t mind the travel time.
Taxi/Uber/Ridesharing
The fastest way to get from the airport to the city centre will be by taxi or a ridesharing service such as Uber. However, this is also going to be the most expensive. For the 20-minute journey you can expect to pay over £20. Of course, if you value speed and privacy then this is the option for you.
Car Rental
Renting a car in Scotland is simple and whether you are picking it up from Edinburgh Airport or another location the process will be the same. Prices can be as low as £40 a day and having a car is incredibly useful in not only getting to Edinburgh, but for also exploring the many other amazing places in Scotland. Beware that for most rental companies you will often have to be over 26 to get a good price and you will almost always be required to book using, and present on arrival, a credit card in the driver’s name.
Getting Around
Walk
Edinburgh is the perfect walking city – even winning an award for it in 2017. Wide pavements, pedestrianised streets, and a compact centre make it easy to get around on foot. You may get a little out of breath walking up the hill or stairs to get onto the Royal Mile but when you’re there you won’t regret it.
Bus
Even though you can get by with walking around the city centre sights, there are places a little bit further afield that you will want to see. For attractions such as Edinburgh Zoo, Royal Yacht Britannia, or the waterside suburb of Portobello, we recommend using a bus. Buses run throughout the day and night and tickets are only a couple of pounds.
Trams
The trams have always been a divisive topic in Edinburgh. Constant delays and going over budget meant that when they were finally unveiled in 2014 they were met with a lukewarm reception. For tourists, the tram’s main use will be getting to and from the airport. Outside of this, you will probably find little use for them and will more likely walk or catch a bus to where you want to go.
Where To Stay
Old Town
Edinburgh’s Old Town is the city’s medieval centre and is the best area to stay if you want to be close to all the attractions. We recommend staying close to Edinburgh’s most famous street, the Royal Mile as this will put you in the heart of the action. This mostly pedestrianised road runs from Edinburgh Castle down the hill to Holyrood Palace and along the way you’ll find many restaurants, pubs and other attractions to keep you entertained.
New Town
Even though it’s called the New Town, it’s not that new! Mostly built between the 18th and 19th centuries and featuring many stunning Georgian buildings, this area is to the north of Princes Street. Staying here still puts you within walking distance of attractions such as the castle but far enough away from the tourist buzz. The main draw of the New Town is its ease of access to amazing shops, restaurants and bars – some of the finest in the city can be found near here.
Leith
Now, if the city centre just seems like too much hustle and bustle and you are after something a bit more laidback then you should think about staying in Leith. This area is to the north of the city and is known for being Edinburgh’s trendiest neighbourhood. Here you’ll find loads of live music, plenty of small local pubs, and you’ll never be too far away from something artsy. While you are here you should definitely check out the waterfront and head over to the Royal Yacht Britannia. For over 40 years this enormous yacht was used by the royal family and travelled over a million miles around the world. It is now permanently berthed in Leith and you can buy tickets to climb aboard and have a look.
Best Attractions
Edinburgh Castle – £20
Edinburgh Castle is an icon of the city and one of Scotland’s most visited tourist attractions. Strategically placed at the top of volcanic crags towards the west side of the city centre, a castle of some sort has stood on this site for almost a thousand years. To take in its full majesty, we would recommend about 2-3 hours here as its not somewhere you want to rush around.
On your visit you can expect to see:
- The Great Hall and its fine collection of medieval weapons and armour.
- Mons Meg – the 15th century, six tonne siege weapon. One of the biggest cannons in the world.
- St Margaret’s Chapel – the serene place of worship for the Castle’s royal inhabitants and the oldest building in Edinburgh.
- Scotland’s Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny which has been used in Scottish royal inaugurations for centuries.
- Museums, dungeons, kitchens and much, much more
If you are on a budget a visit to the castle is not cheap. Tickets come in about £20 but it will be money and time well spent.
Mary Kings Close and Edinburgh Ghost Tours – £20
If tales of hauntings and the macabre intrigue you then you simply can’t miss Mary Kings Close. Situated deep under the Royal Mile, the close (alleyways) has a peculiar history. Originally a set of ordinary tenement houses and alleyways, through years of neglect, plague, and abandonment they eventually became decayed and derelict. Rather than repairing them it was decided that they would instead barricade the streets and houses and build directly on top of them thus leaving the area shrouded in darkness for centuries.
Climbing down the stairs to the subterranean streets and passageways will transport you to a hidden city. Here you will learn the true story of Dr Rae, Edinburgh’s plague doctor. Clad in his long black cloak and sporting the traditional bird-like mask, he would have visited the very rooms you will find yourself in, attempting, often in vain, to cure the many victims that would eventually perish within those very walls. It is no wonder that this is often considered one of Scotland’s most haunted places. Entry is by guided tour only and you can by tickets in person or online for £20.
P.S. if you are after more haunted places in Edinburgh then book yourself on an evening ghost walk. These are a fantastic way to see the city after dark and learn about the gruesome events that have occurred on the streets of the capital. Another spooky place you can visit is the eerie underground vaults that form a labyrinth beneath Edinburgh’s streets. You could go during the day but that would ruin the fun – definitely book yourself on an evening tour!
National Museum of Scotland – Free
A visit to Edinburgh would not be complete without wandering the halls of this impressive institute. This place is a childhood favourite of ours and when you visit you’ll see why. This is not one of those small, boring museums, in fact it’s quite the opposite. Here you will find lots of interactive elements that will keep the whole family happy as you move from room to room learning about everything from outer space to Dolly the cloned sheep. After you have spent hours gazing in amazement at all the exhibits, head through to the Scottish History part of the museum and take the lift to the top floor. Here you will find an often quiet rooftop garden with breath-taking views over the city and Edinburgh Castle.
Camera Obscura – £19
Prepare to be bewildered at one of Edinburgh’s oldest purpose-built attractions. Don’t worry, its had plenty of renovations since it started welcoming customers in way back in 1835. Spread out over the five floors are a whole host of illusions and visual trickery that will leave you scratching your head. Don’t miss the Vortex Tunnel, Mirror Maze or the impressive Camera Obscura show on the top floor. A ticket will set you back £19 and can be booked in advance online.
Holyrood Palace – £16.50
If you follow the Royal Mile all the way down from the castle you will eventually arrive at Holyrood Palace – the Queen’s official residence when she is in Scotland. On your visit here you will be able to visit the stunning State Apartments, Throne Room and Mary Queen of Scots’ Chambers to name just a few. You will also be able to learn all about Bonnie Prince Charlie and how he occupied the palace during the Jacobite Rising in 1745. Entry to the palace and the adjoining 12th century abbey costs £16.50 but beware that it is closed every Tuesday and Wednesday, in addition to any time the Queen is in residence.
Free Things To Do
Calton Hill
To the east of Edinburgh’s New Town sits Calton Hill. Although its not very large and only takes 10 minutes to traverse, the view from the top is unbeatable. From here, you are able to look down over the Scott Monument, Princes Street and the Gardens as well as across to Edinburgh Castle – it’s a beautiful sight to behold. Sharing the hill with you are a number of important monuments which you are free to explore. You can visit the hill any time of day but if you want to see the city in a different light come up for the sunset.
Arthurs Seat
It may look daunting from the bottom, but this extinct volcano is perfectly fine to climb regardless of your age or ability. A clear and well-defined path leads you up from the base carpark and winds its way up to the summit. An average time from bottom to top is about 30 minutes but feel free to stop as many times as you want – it’s not a race! Once you reach the top you will be greeted by spectacular views over Edinburgh and the surrounding lands, and on a clear day you will have an unobstructed view all the way across to Berwick Law which is over 20 miles away.
Dean Village
Located only a short walk away from the city centre is the tranquil area known as Dean Village. It’s difficult to believe you are still in the nation’s capital when you arrive at this small oasis. Picturesque buildings line your walk down to the quaint river which for over 800 years would have been a hive of activity. At one point in time, the water running through here would have powered many grain mills and is what this area was most famous for. Nowadays, this is primarily a residential area so if you visit, please be respectful of your surroundings but don’t be afraid to snap some photos.
The Scottish National Gallery
Situated on The Mound, directly between the Old Town and the New, is the Scottish National Gallery. This gorgeous, neoclassical building houses some of Scotland’s finest pieces of art featuring works by Da Vinci, Vermeer, Matisse and thousands more. When you are there keep an eye out for one of our favourite paintings, the mystical Monarch of the Glen by Sir Edwin Lanseer. Entrance is free but you may have to book a timeslot in advance.
St Giles Cathedral
St Giles Cathedral is one of, if not, the most important church building in Scotland. It was from this very building that the infamous John Knox led his Protestant Reformation against Catholicism that changed Scottish history forever – you will find his statue just inside the entrance. Also inside you will find the beautifully ornate Thistle Chapel. This is home to the Knights of the Order of the Thistle, which is the highest order of chivalry in Scotland. Every two years, the Queen (as their leader) visits this small chapel along with the 16 other members of the order for a special ceremony. The interior of the chapel features exquisite craftsmanship and detailing. Our favourite piece is the small carving of an angel playing the bagpipes – see if you can spot it!
Escape The City
Even though Edinburgh has so much to see and do, it would be a shame to spend all your time in the city centre. Here’s our recommendations of nearby places you can explore:
Queensferry
The Forth Bridges are one of Scotland’s most iconic sights and the famous rail bridge is rightly recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town of South Queensferry is the perfect place to get up close and personal with these great symbols of Scottish engineering.
If you want an even closer look, we recommend getting a 1.5 hour sightseeing boat tour run by Maid of the Forth. This tour will take you out under the bridges and up the Forth – keep an eye out for sunbathing seals! Or if you are have more time, link your boat tour in with a visit to Inchcolm Abbey. This is one of Scotland’s best preserved monastic buildings and is located on a remote island in the middle of the Forth. To get here you will need to book a ticket through a tour operator like Maid of the Forth who will ferry you there and back. On the island, you can explore not only the historic abbey but also a 12th century hermit’s cell and remains of WW1 & WW2 naval defences.
To get to Queensferry from Edinburgh, buy a return ticket to Dalmeny which is only a 10-minute walk from waterfront and should cost about £10. If you want to make a once in a lifetime trip, you could also make the short return journey over the Forth Rail Bridge by buying a ticket from Dalmeny to North Queensferry. It only takes a few minutes and costs a couple pounds but is well worth it.
Falkirk
The historic town of Falkirk is only a short journey away from Edinburgh. If you decide to go by train, then you have the choice of arriving at Falkirk Grahamston or Falkirk High. Both options will take you 30 minutes and cost about £15 return however we recommend going to Grahamston as it is closer to the town centre and the attractions. Talking of attractions, Falkirk has lots to offer including the world-famous Kelpies at Helix Park. These 100ft tall horse sculptures really need to be seen in real life and will likely be the highlight of your trip here. If you like the sound of that then you can read a more in-depth guide of Falkirk here.
St Andrews
The small seaside town of St Andrews makes a great day trip from Edinburgh. Known globally for being the ‘home of golf’, those lucky and skilled enough can have a round on the Old Course at St Andrews. This course is considered the oldest golf course in the world at over 600 years old – a real mecca for golfers. The town has lots of other things to offer apart from golf. For example, why not explore the secret mines underneath St Andrew’s Castle or climb to the top of St Rule’s Tower for glorious views over the entire town. Or if you wish to take things at a slower pace, then there are plenty of shops and cafes lining the streets that you can relax in. If you plan on going, we suggest driving or taking an organised tour as the nearest train station to St Andrews is over 6 miles away thus making the journey quite awkward.
East Lothian
On a warm sunny day, I can’t think of anything better than jumping in the car and touring East Lothian – the region to the east of Edinburgh. From Edinburgh, we suggest setting your Satnav to the seaside town of Dunbar but adjust it so that it follows the coast rather than A1 Motorway. The one-way journey is around 40 miles so just over an hour’s worth of driving but there will be plenty of stops.
You will pass through idyllic towns and villages on your route, but we suggest stopping off in the quaint village of Dirleton to see its stunning castle and gardens. From here you can continue onto the town of North Berwick for a spot of lunch – can’t go wrong with a traditional seaside fish and chips! Next you can make the short drive to Tantallon Castle to see why it’s often regarded as one of the most amazing in Scotland. Perched on the edge of a rugged cliff and sporting the scars of battle, Tantallon is one of our favourites. Make sure when you are here to peer out to sea to spot Bass Rock and its massive colony of gannets.
From here you can continue down to Dunbar for dinner. If you are still up for some sightseeing, then park up at Belhaven Beach and take a walk down by the seafront. This beach is often less crowded than others around it. From Dunbar you can take a shortcut back to Edinburgh by going straight down the motorway.
There will be tour operators and buses that you can use for this trip but we suggest hiring a car and doing it yourself. This will give you privacy and the freedom to explore and stop wherever you want.
Useful Tips
- The weather in Edinburgh is rather typical for Scotland where the cold and wet winter months are offset by the lovely, warm summers. May is a great time to come visit Edinburgh as it is the month with the most sunshine and very little rain. The temperature in May is not as warm as in June or July but it’s perfectly comfortable. Due to its close proximity to the sea and hills, Edinburgh is renowned for always being windy. So definitely remember that scarf if you come in winter.
- August is a great time to visit Edinburgh for two reasons. One, the weather is perfect. Two, the largest arts festival in the world hits the streets of Edinburgh. I am of course talking about the famous Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Every August, thousands of performers arrive in the city ready to put on a month’s worth of entertainment. We are not even exaggerating when we say there are hundreds of events and shows on every single day.
- Our personal favourite time to visit Edinburgh is in the run up to Christmas and New Year (or as we Scots call it, Hogmanay). Despite the cold, the streets will be packed with merry shoppers picking up their last-minute Christmas gifts. The place to be during this time is the Christmas Market in Princes Street Gardens. The smell of cinnamon and mulled wine will captivate you as you go from stall to stall and, if you are brave enough, why not take a ride on the giant Ferris wheel for lovely views across the city. If you stick around for midnight on New Year’s Eve, expect a massive party in the streets and the best fireworks display in the country.
- If your peaceful stroll through Princes Street Gardens is suddenly interrupted by a thunderous boom there is no need to be alarmed. This is simply the firing of the 1 O’clock gun high above you on the ramparts of Edinburgh Castle. In a tradition that goes back to Victorian times, 1pm every day (apart from Sundays) is marked with a small ceremony and the firing of a large 105mm field gun. If you can time it right, we recommend visiting the castle at this time so you get to see it first-hand – you may want to cover your ears!
